Getting Started In Fly Fishing:  Choosing A Fly Rod

By Michael Hatfield

When talking to anglers about fly fishing, all too often I get the response that they would like to give fly fishing a try but it looks too complicated and they don’t know where to start.  Over the next few paragraphs I will cover some basic information on choosing a rod that will get you headed in the right direction or at least arm you with some of the right questions to ask your local fly shop as you choose your equipment. 
Unfortunately when it comes to choosing a fly fishing outfit, there is not a universal rod, reel and line that is good for all situations.  The good news is that with a couple of different combinations you can successfully fish for many different species.  The decision tree to follow when choosing equipment goes something like this:

1. Determine the species you will be fishing for.
2. Determine the fly sizes you will be using for that species.
3. Choose the fly line to match the fly sizes you will be fishing with.
4. Choose the fly rod by weight to match the fly line you will be using.
5. Choose the leader and tippet to match the flies and line you have chosen.
6. Choose the proper reel to handle the matching line and adequate backing.

All of this sounds complicated but actually it is pretty straight forward and very similar to the decisions you make when purchasing a conventional fishing outfit. 
The thought process for getting outfitted for fly fishing should follow the above decision tree but usually the “purchase” process begins with the purchase of a fly rod so I’ll jump right into rods.  Fly rods and lines have a “weight” designation that you need to pay attention to when putting together your fly fishing outfit.  When choosing your rod and line make sure you match the fly line with the corresponding “weight” of your fly rod.  The “weight” of the fly line actually corresponds to the weight in grains of the first thirty feet of that line and the “weight” of the rod corresponds to the line that rod was designed to cast most effectively.  Today’s fly rods will cast a fly line one or two line weights lighter or heavier than designated, but for those just starting out, match up the exact weights. 

Rod weights range from a very light “00”, which is more of a small specialty trout rod, all the way up to a 14 weight which is a heavy saltwater rod.  If you are primarily going to fish on small streams for trout along with panfish in lakes and farm ponds, I would recommend a 5 weight rod.  If James River smallmouth bass or shad are also your target species, I would jump up to a 6 weight to handle the bigger streamers and popping bugs used for smallmouth while still giving you the light touch when using trout flies.  For anglers going after larger species such as largemouth bass, stripers, redfish and blues, I would recommend an 8 or a 9 weight set up.  An 8 weight outfit will still work very well for smallmouth.  This set up gives you the power to cast the heavier more bulky flies associated with these species and the strength to fight bigger fish. 

Fly rods also come configured by “action” or “flex” which relates to the stiffness of the rod and how far down the rod flexes under normal use.  Each manufacturer may label their “action” or “flex” slightly different, but the most common are “full”, “moderate” and “fast”.  Each of these actions has its own unique characteristics just as each angler has their own unique casting motion.  A “full” flex rod is a more traditional action that flexes almost entirely from tip to butt when casting or fighting a fish.  This is an excellent choice for use with very light tippets and shorter range casting or for someone with a slower casting stroke.  A “moderate” flex rod flexes to about the middle of the rod while a “fast” action rod only flexes at the top 1/4 or tip section. For someone just starting out in fly fishing, I would recommend beginning with a “moderate” action rod.  A “moderate” action rod flexes enough to give protection to light tippets when fighting a fish and still has enough backbone to bring in that big fish.  The “moderate” action rod will let the caster feel the rod flex as they cast and is more forgiving towards casting stroke flaws.  A “fast” action rod is the least forgiving and typically turns out to be the hardest to cast for a beginner.  This action is suited for someone with a quick casting stroke.  Before you purchase a rod I strongly recommend testing several rods at your fly shop to see which one feels the best for you.

Length is another consideration when purchasing a fly rod.  If you plan on fishing on small, tight mountain streams, I would recommend a 7 foot to 7 ½ foot rod.  The shorter rod is easier to maneuver in tight places.  In the past, a nine foot rod was typically the norm however today many companies are adding ten foot rods to their line-ups.  A longer rod will give you additional leverage when casting and when fighting a fish.  The longer rod will also allow you to hold the line higher above the water during casting and this is important if you are waist deep in a stream or the surf.                

Fly fishing draws anglers for many different reasons.  For some it is the chance to fish new and different waters.  For someone else it is the enjoyment of tying their own flies and catching a fish on that fly.  For me, it is fishing a very technical mountain stream and making an accurate cast to that spot where I think a fish might be holding.  No matter what draws you to fly fishing, don’t put it off another day.  Stop in your local shop and get outfitted and hit the water.                      

Michael Hatfield lives in Richmond, VA and is a member of the Shelbyville Rod Pro Staff.  You can reach him through his website at www.threehatsflyfishing.com